There’s undeniably something special about Gettysburg in September that calls you to explore. 

Between the cool, crisp air and the soft rustling of leaves makes it clear that fall is on its way – and there’s never a better time to explore Gettysburg National Military Park. 

I recently had the privilege of embarking on our inaugural History Hike – a new series where we will explore Coal Region history (or history experienced by Coal Region residents). In our first edition, we followed the footsteps of the 143rd Pennsylvania Volunteer Infantry through some of the most iconic terrain of Gettysburg National Military Park. 

Alongside me was my friend and fellow public historian, Rich Condon, from Civil War Pittsburgh. Rich’s deep knowledge of Civil War and Gettysburg history was the perfect complement to our walk through this historic landscape.

We started our walk near the Gettysburg College campus, at the time of the Civil War known as Pennsylvania College. 

It’s hard to imagine the chaos that unfolded in this area on July 1, 1863, as US forces scrambled to form a defensive line north of town as elements of the Confederate army entered the fray. We made the decision to take our walk around the northern end of the Union line before making our way to the ridges and hilltops where Gettysburg’s first bloody day was won and lost. 

As Rich and I walked, I thought about the men of the 143rd and other Pennsylvanians – men like Sergeant Benjamin Crippen – ordinary soldiers who were thrown into the extraordinary events at Gettysburg on July 1, 1863. 

We followed a path that mirrored the Union line north of town, making our way towards Oak Hill and ultimately Seminary Ridge. 

For those unfamiliar with Gettysburg’s geography, Oak Hill offers one of the most commanding views of the battlefield. On that fateful July 1st, Confederate forces used this high ground to unleash a brutal attack on Union positions. Today it is home to the Eternal Peace Light Memorial, dedicated by FDR on the 75th anniversary of the battle in 1938. 

The path we tread southward along Oak Ridge is a peaceful spot, perfect for reflection, but walking along Doubleday Avenue, it’s impossible not to imagine the sounds of battle – the musket fire, the booming artillery, and the cries of men in combat. 

We passed numerous monuments to the US Army units that fought here on July 1 before Rich and I continued on towards our next destination: the monument to the 143rd Pennsylvania.

The monument along modern day Route 30 on McPherson Ridge stands as a solemn tribute to the men of the regiment, who fought valiantly to hold their ground in the face of overwhelming odds as Confederate forces advanced all around them on the afternoon of July 1, 1863. 

The sculpted soldier atop the monument is a symbol of defiance toward Confederate attackers – a reminder that, despite their best efforts, the 143rd was forced to retreat under heavy pressure from Confederate forces. The soldier depicted – Color Sergeant Ben Crippen from Scranton, Pennsylvania – died carrying his nation’s colors and defiantly shaking his fist at the advancing Confederates. 

Standing before the monument, you can’t help but feel a deep sense of respect for these Pennsylvanians. After all, they weren’t professional soldiers; many were mineworkers, laborers, and farmers, and yet they rose to the challenge in defense of their country in a desperate moment. 

From the monument, Rich and I continued down to a hidden spots in the park that Rich was excited to show me — 19th century graffiti at the nearby McPherson’s Barn. 

What makes this stop particularly special for those of us following the story of the 143rd Pennsylvania is the graffiti left behind by veterans of the regiment when they visited the battlefield on Pennsylvania Day – September 12, 1889.

The two veterans – Jonas Tubbs and Singleton Goss – left a tangible mark behind to mark a spot that left a permanent impact on their lives as survivors of the vicious fight that took place around that barn two decades earlier. 

With the sun starting to dip lower in the sky, Rich and I followed the route of the 143rd’s retreat back towards Gettysburg. We stopped by the farmhouse on Seminary Ridge recently preserved by the American Battlefield Trust.

Largely known as Lee’s Headquarters, but now known to me as “the 143rd’s Last Stand” – on the fields just west of the stone farmhouse, the beleaguered soldiers of the 143rd Pennsylvania made one last attempt to stop the Confederate advance before retreating in the face of the onslaught. 

We walked down Chambersburg Street, retracing the steps the regiment took as they fell back through town in the chaos of July 1st. The soldiers retreated, many still fighting, while civilians watched in horror from their homes. Today, the street is lined with shops and businesses, but the weight of history lingers here, as it does throughout Gettysburg. 

As we near the center of Gettysburg, it was time for a well-earned break after about 5 miles of walking. 

Gettysburg has no shortage of great spots to grab a drink, and I’m particularly fond of the Garry Owen Irish Pub. Rich and I took a seat and ordered a couple of beers—mine a Guinness (non-alcoholic as I’m backing off the alcohol these days). 

We reflected on the hike so far and the stunning weather we had for this hike through history. 

But we weren’t done yet. After finishing our drinks, we set out once again, following the 143rd’s retreat route all the way to East Cemetery Hill. 

By the evening of July 1st, this hill became the rallying point for Union forces, and it’s where the men of the 143rd reformed to help defend the high ground. The view from Cemetery Hill offers a sweeping panorama of the battlefield, and standing there at dusk, you can feel the weight of history all around you.

Our day ended there, with the quiet stillness of the battlefield and the soft glow of the setting sun. For Rich and me, this was just another of our fairly frequent hikes through history, but I’m glad we followed this particular route. 

It brought stories of the 143rd Pennsylvania to life for me in new ways. For this regiment from Luzerne County, this was their first major test in battle and they suffered horrific casualties. Sergeant Ben Crippen was one of 253 casualties suffered by the 143rd on July 1, 1863: 21 men were killed, 141 wounded, and 91 missing/captured. That’s nearly half of the 515 soldiers that joined the fight with the regiment earlier that day. 

The hike also highlights the importance of the July 1 battlefield at Gettysburg. Often neglected in favor of the views from Little Round Top or monument madness on Cemetery Ridge where Lee’s July 3 attack faced its ultimate destruction, the views and stories along the Oak, McPherson, and Seminary ridges are worth exploring and treasuring. 

The History Hikes series is all about immersing yourself in the stories of the Coal Region’s past, and I thought there’s no better place to do that than following Coal Region soldiers at Gettysburg. 

The 143rd Pennsylvania’s story is one of courage amid the tumult and horror of the deadliest Civil War battle and one that continues to resonate today, especially for those with roots in the anthracite laden hills and valleys of Northeastern Pennsylvania.

Whether you’re a history enthusiast or a looking for a nice walk through the preserved countryside and farmland outside Gettysburg, I highly recommend tracing the steps of these brave men. You’ll come away with a deeper appreciation for the history that shaped this nation and experience why Gettysburg endures as a must-visit historic and outdoor destination.

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Read the full report from the 143rd Pennsylvania at the Battle of Gettysburg on July 1, 1863:

CAMP NEAR GETTYSBURG, PA.,
July 4, 1863.

COLONEL:

I have the honor to make a report of the participation of the One hundred and forty-third Pennsylvania Volunteer Regiment in the battle of Gettysburg, July 1, after the command was turned over to me, which occurred while holding the road west of the town, where the One hundred and forty-ninth and One hundred and forty-third had been ordered by command of Colonel Stone. It was in the hottest of the fire that I assumed the command, and had simply to hold the position, which we did as long as it could be held without being all captured, as the enemy were rapidly falling back on our left and flanking us on the right. Up to this time but few had been killed or wounded. Captains G. N. Reichard, Plotz, and Conyngham, among the officers, were wounded early in the action; Captain Reichard alone left on the field.

After the enemy had driven the One hundred and forty-ninth from our left, I gave the command to move back. After crossing the crest of a hill, which lay a quarter of a mile in our rear and toward the town, we halted, faced about, and fired several volleys, checking their advance in front but not on our flanks. We then fell back to a peach orchard, where our battery was stationed. We again halted, and, with others, saved the battery, leaving the men (not ours) to pull it out of range by hand. It was with great difficulty I could get all the men to fall back from this point, which was a good one, and in front of which the enemy fell thick and fast. Still they moved in columns on our right and left, and superior numbers compelled us to fall back to the town, which, I might say, was done in good order, and only when peremptorily ordered to do so.

The road from this hill (Battery Hill) to town was 10 to 12 feet high, and crossed over a stream and low meadow. Before leaving, the enemy had come out of the woods on our right (as we faced the enemy at the battery), and it was while going through the meadow my men fell so rapidly that I concluded to take them on the other side of this high road. But the balls and shell were as thick, if not thicker, on the right as on the left side. While making the observation, I received a ball through my pants, slightly wounding the skin near the knee. I rejoined the regiment, knowing this to be the safest side. I felt like making another stand, but utter destruction would have been inevitable, as the enemy deployed as soon as they left the woods, making intervals between their men, which gave them a decided advantage over us.

I am pleased to say my men behaved nobly, and fought under great disadvantage and against greatly superior numbers. Among the officers killed I have to record that of Lieutenant Charles W. Betzenberger, who was wounded in the hand early in the action, but nobly stood at the head of his company while supporting the battery in the peach orchard. He moved back only when ordered, and fell, mortally wounded, near the town. Among the wounded I have the honor to report the name of Captain Charles M. Conyngham, of Company A, who was wounded while out skirmishing, but remained with his company, and remained at the peach orchard until the order was given to move back. I saw him, after we had passed through the town, seemingly exhausted, and ordered my horse back to help him up the hill, but, just as he was mounting, he was again shot in the hip, after which I did not see him, but am happy to report his wounds are not of a dangerous character. Lieutenant C. C. Plotz was wounded early in the action, and also afterward again on the road into town. Captain George N. Reichard, of Company C, was wounded in the shoulder while holding the road, and afterward taken prisoner. Captain Asher Gaylord, of Company D, was wounded in both legs while in the peach orchard, and left on the field. Lieutenant William Lafrance, of Company E, was shot through the arm while passing through the town. Captain William A. Tubbs, slight wound in head and taken prisoner. Lieutenant H. M. Gordon, shot through the leg, and taken prisoner while crawling after the regiment. Lieutenant Lyman R. Nicholson, wounded through the shoulder after leaving the peach orchard; supposed to be of a serious character, but refused to have any one remain with him on the field. Lieutenant O. E. Vaughan, of Company K, received a slight bruise on the head from a ball, although not close enough to cut the skin, yet may properly be called a wound. I am happy to say that among those not killed or wounded, all, with one exception, stood at their posts and acted in the most becoming and commendable manner, deserving of the highest praise and commendation. John Jones, jr., A djutant, reported himself wounded, although I have not been able to learn, where, or whether sufficiently serious to have prevented him rejoining his regiment after passing through the town, and therefore report him among the doubtful. Lieutenant Benjamin F. Walters, of the One hundred and forty-third Regiment, but on your staff, showed great bravery, and distinguished himself, being conspicuous on all parts of the field; but I suppose he will come more properly under the head of your report.

In summing up my report of the casualties of the day, I have to report as follows: Killed, 1 officer and 19 non-commissioned officers and privates; wounded, 10 officers and 116 non-commissioned officers and men; prisoners, 65, and missing 25-most of the latter supposed to be either killed, wounded, or prisoners. Entered the battle with 465. It was our first engagement, and if any censure be attached to our regiment, it must be for not falling back sooner.

I have the honor to remain, yours, very respectfully,

JNO. D. MUSSER,
Major, Comdg. 143rd Regiment Pennsylvania Volunteers.

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